Carcross, a small community in the Yukon, is the home to a desert! All around this area are tall snow capped mountains, but Carcross is a warm desert! Outside of Carcross is Emerald Lake. Many lakes in this area are the color of emerald because they are shallow with the light reflecting off the bottom giving it a green color. This color also signifies that the lake has little oxygen so fish are not able to live in this water.
Skagway is at the north end on the Lynn Fjord which does not freeze over in the winter, but does have 17 foot waves. The Fjord is extremely deep with areas over 2,000 feet! The first boatloads of stampeders bound for the Klondike gold landed in Skagway in 1897 and the population grew to 20,000. The year round population of Skagway today is 500. Sores and restaurants for cruise ships are their largest employer. There were four ships in port while we were here.
Skagway is located at the southern terminus of the Sough Klondike Highway, with a border crossing point just out of town. Driving to Skagway is quite an experience. We passed the Canadian border and drove for miles through what they call the moon. This is a barren area with huge rocks, little vegetation, many ponds, and bordered by huge mountains. After the moon the two lane road becomes a 9% switchblade downgrade for over 10 miles. The road is narrow and one side is a mountain and the other is straight down, with no rails on the side. Near the bottom of this heart stopping drive is the U.S. Customs.
Skagway is one of the few places to catch a ferry to Juneau, the capital of Alaska. Juneau has about 222 days of precipitation a year! The downtown area caters to cruise ships and we were informed that in the winter most of the buildings are empty and boarded up. The locals live and shop outside of downtown.
Prior to the arrival of the Russians and prospectors this was Tlingit land. The Tlingit were described as having one of the most sophisticated social structures and intricate societies of any indigenous people in the world. The Tlingit lead Joe Juneau and Dick Harris to a creek of color, now called Gold Creek, which had one of the largest lodes of gold quartz in the world.
Juneau is also home to Mendenhall Glacier. We were able to walk right up to the half mile wide, 100 foot tall, front of the glacier.
On the way to Juneau we encountered a pod of Humpback Whales “bubble-net feeding.” The whales herd their prey toward the water’s surface in a shrinking “net” of bubbles, then the whales suddenly launch upward, gulping thousands of fish at once. The whales make the bubbles by diving, swimming in a circle while blowing air out their air hole. When the leader lets out a sound they all come out of the water about 5 feet with their mouths wide open and full of prey. Finally they submerge, fill their stomachs with water, and filter out what they do not want. It was an amazing site. We were told that if a whale does not follow the exact instructions of the leader they are kicked out of the pod and forced to hunt alone. Our boat captain knew the Humpbacks were in the area because of the hoard of birds. He had us watch the birds and when they all flew together and dove for the water he knew the whales would breach. The birds are watching for the krill and herring to come to the top and hope to get one before the whales launch to the surface.